北疆遊記（English version: Northern Xinjiang Travelogue)

浩崙

In June this year, thanks to months of tireless efforts by S and her sister, we assembled a group of about a dozen friends—both old and new—from Europe, America, and across China. Over half of us were born and grew up in Shanghai, along with a brother-and-sister pair, classmates from fifty years ago, former “educated youth,” and beloved friends made in China and abroad over the years... Ten or so companions spending about ten days together—like-minded travelers—unleashed our spirits in the stunning beauty of Northwest China. We shared an unforgettable journey in Northern Xinjiang.Xinjiang, located at the heart of the Eurasian continent, is vast and full of both stunning natural beauty and rich cultural essence. As infrastructure improves, this historically mystical region has become a dream destination for avid travelers. Most of our group are retirees, and since Xinjiang spans one-sixth of China, covering both North and South in a single trip would be unrealistic. People often say: visit Northern Xinjiang for its landscapes, Southern Xinjiang for its culture—so for a first visit, North was the clear choice for a carefree, scenic adventure. The sisters, managing the planning across China and the US, crafted a perfect itinerary for us, the friends just tagging along. They worked with a local Xinjiang travel agency, tailoring a feasible route based on the group's schedule and preferences, building upon the popular Northern Xinjiang circuit. In the final days before confirmation, everyone pitched in ideas, brainstorming until all the details were set. It looked pretty good. Worth mentioning: the northernmost stops, Kanas and Hemu Village in the Altay region, lie at the border of China, Mongolia, Russia, and Kazakhstan. On China’s map, which resembles a proud rooster, Altay sits at the tip of its upturned tail！ The closer to Xingjiang, the more emotional the scene. From the plane over Northwest China, I gazed out the window—snow-covered peaks, towering mountains in majestic view; on the horizon, the vast steppe faintly visible。 Meet Driver Master Y—smiling, energetic, his hat slightly shabby, charming like Ji Gong. He served as our driver and part-time guide, affectionately dubbed “Commander Y.” Throughout the trip, he earned everyone’s unanimous respect, praise, and affection. Too many stories about Commander Y to share here. We were truly lucky to have him. A special thank you to him for filming with a drone and staying up late creating videos. Two videos and many photographs he and fellow travelers contributed are included in this Meipian post. Thank you, Commander Y, and our group！ Commander Y met us at Urumqi’s Tianshan Airport and took us to a hotel near People’s Square in the city center. The square is a public space blending historical and cultural significance with everyday urban life—witness to modern changes in Xinjiang politics, and a popular spot for locals to relax and socialize. On Day 2, we headed to Tianshan Tianchi National Park—an easy and relaxing day。 Heavenly Lake (Tianchi) lies on the northern slope of Bogeda Peak in the eastern Tianshan Mountains, within Fukang, Changji Hui Autonomous Prefecture—about a 1.5–2 hr drive from Urumqi. At around 1,900?m elevation, it spans approximately 4.9?km2 and reaches depths of up to 105?m. Known for both natural majesty and mythic lore, ancient people called it the “Jade Lake.” Quotes from poets across eras are engraved on Tianchi’s steps. Since the Tang Dynasty, writers often envisioned it as a divine abode, an idyllic retreat, or a symbol of unity between heaven and humanity. When Emperor Qianlong toured Tianchi, he penned a poem:“From Jade Lake’s far view the emerald waves unfold,White clouds drift before the Queen Mother’s palace gate.Who asks if a path to that realm truly exists?In dreams, we already stand on its verdant terrace.” At Feilongtan Waterfall: Our friends Yuanyuan his sibling and others rented a pedal tricycle to get there and encouraged us to ride back—sharing the fun of cycling. We enjoyed and had so much fun together that other travelers on the road side cheered us on! Thanks, Yuanyuan! Day 3: We traveled along the “Desert Highway” of North Xinjiang—the S21 connecting Urumqi to Altay. Passing through “Kela Qemili Park” in the heart of the Gurbantünggüt Desert on the Junggar Basin. The service area was well-equipped, and even off-season, it drew a steady stream of visitors. We shared a group meal together every day—one standout dish (at Day 2’s lunch) was the ubiquitous Big Plate Chicken!Here’s a playful poem by “ChatGPT”:“At the inn, chicken’s aroma eases travel fatigue,Tongues race ahead before dust is shaken off.A foreign flavor turns a feast delicious,Gazing toward Tianshan, time seems to pause.”Still, nothing compares to the classic—grilled lamb skewers—delicious and timeless. After driving over 300?km, we reached the famous Xinjiang Five Colored Beach. This Yadan-landscape site—celebrated as “China’s #1 Beach” and “Xinjiang’s most beautiful Yadan landform”. A perfect encounter between a geological wonder and the colors of nature. The color is at its most vivid at sunset. So Commander Y timed our arrival around 8pm for us to bask in a spectacular visual feast. ?? The Irtysh River—flowing by Five-Colored Beach—is China’s sole river that heads west and ultimately enters the Arctic Ocean, making it China’s most northwest major international river. Originating in the southern Altay Mountains in Xinjiang, it travels through China, Kazakhstan, and Russia, then joins the Ob River before reaching the Arctic Ocean. A cable-suspension footbridge in the background looked worth exploring—unfortunately, we couldn't detour out of the site in time. S and her sister (the first and third from the right) reunited with the trip group’s eldest couple from Scotland—a handsome and lovely pair. Their friendship with S spans decades, and meeting again here in northern Xinjiang was truly a rare and precious reunion. A true friend is enough in life—S has two here, sparking everyone’s envy! What a gift. New renewable energy development in Northern Xinjiang is quite striking—we saw several trucks carrying massive wind turbine components along the way Day?4: Today was especially exciting—we were entering one of the trip’s most beautiful spots, Kanas! Leaving the Northern Basin behind, we entered Altay as if stepping into a fairytale: green grasslands, snow-capped peaks reaching the clouds, yurts everywhere, and grazing livestock dotting the hillsides. At Jiadengyu entrance, we took a shuttle bus up to the Kanas Visitor Center. Highland weather turned on a dime: dark clouds rolled in, heavy rain fell, and temperatures dropped sharply. We all bought raincoats and hopped on the shuttle to Kanas Lake—and the rain stopped quickly. In Mongolian, “Kanas” means “beautiful and mysterious lake.” It’s a glacial dam lake with crystal-clear blue waters. Commander Y jokingly teased us “yangpan” (Shanghai slang for “silly tourists”)—that the lake might harbor a “l(fā)ake monster,” a local famous unsolved mystery. Online sources suggest the so-called monster is likely a very large salmon. A flock of ducklings huddled on rocks in the water—some brave ones even started swimming on their own. Fish-Watching Terrace at Kanas offers a panoramic view of the lake—but reaching it requires climbing 1,068 steps. Four of us trekked to the top, with sweeping views of the lake and its winding bays. The climb was totally worth it. The first person on the left in the photo is a group member and a grandma already, who made it all the way through Fish-Watching Terrace, Moon Bay, and Wolong Bay with us. So impressive! After the rain cleared, the lake beneath blue skies and white clouds took on a mysterious turquoise hue—mineral reflections and light at play. Near the Fish-Watching Terrace, the water bent into a crescent shape. From the Fish-Watching Terrace, looking around—this place must be even more beautiful in golden autumn! Coming down from the terrace, pressed for time, we asked a young tourist on the shuttle about the three bays. He suggested skipping Shenxian Bay and heading straight to Moon Bay, hiking to Wolfing Bay - it was worth a stop. We passed Shenxian Bay on the shuttle and got off at Moon Bay. Honestly—I didn’t quite see why it’s called “Moon” Bay… It took less than an hour to walk from Moon Bay to Wolong Bay. Definitely worth the visit—many stopped for photos. Here, the Kanas River widened and slowed, its surface like a mirror, framed by green slopes under blue skies. The river oasis looked exceptionally charming. Day?5: Hemu Village. Located not far from Kanas Lake in the Altay region, Hemu is a renowned village in the Kanas area and considered one of "China’s most beautiful countryside." Home to the Tuvan people, it's famous for pristine nature and well-preserved Tuvan traditions. Their language, beliefs, and way of life closely resemble those of the Mongolians. Approaching Hemu, we saw a sign warning we were entering a border area. At a checkpoint, police chatted briefly with Commander Y—and then let us passHemu sits beside the Hemu River in a basin of the Altay Mountains. Our vehicle couldn’t enter the scenic area, so we stayed in wooden cottages right inside the village. We packed light and took the shuttle into the area. After settling in, Commander Y whisked us by shuttle to Yunxiao Peak for a cable car ride to the summit. It’s even a training base for China’s national ski team. From the top, the map view revealed how close we were to Mongolia, Russia, and Kazakhstan. Yunxiao Peak stands at about 2,800–3,200?meters. From the top, we could see the borders of neighboring countries—one mountain, four countries in view! Commander Y’s drone captured it all spectacularly. The YY siblings spread their arms wide, embracing the breathtaking Northwest landscape! The Tuvan people follow traditional beliefs combining shamanism, nature worship, and folk faith. They see mountains, rivers, stones, and trees as spiritual beings. “Stone-stacking”—building rock piles—is a way to pray to nature spirits for safety, health, or wishes granted. The colorful prayer ribbons represent reverence for nature spirits, devotion to Buddhist faith, and blessings for family, journey, and life. Visitors come here with respect, offering prayers, hopes, and spiritual connection. In the distance is a glacier-clad summit—“Friendship Peak,” believed to be the highest here. The name dates back to the China–Soviet Union honeymoon era of the 1950s–60s and remains today—an echo of geopolitical shifts over decades. Hard to imagine such peace and beauty here during the 70s and 80s. Hemu’s rivers and mountains are stunning and awe-inspiring. The Hemu River runs crystal clear through the village and joins the Kanas River downstream. On Hemu Bridge, visitors pass continuously—never-ending flow of people. 從哈登觀景臺俯瞰禾木村，白樺林 Overlooking Hemu Village and the birch forest from the Haden Observation Deck White birch forests in summer are beautiful—but in golden autumn, the sea of golden leaves must be absolutely mesmerizing! A funny incident: while wandering in Hemu streets, our Scottish beauty got distracted by flowers, and the handsome guy and friends walked ahead—she got lost! With no local data or navigation, she cleverly asked a stranger to share theirs and found her way back to the group. After that, the handsome couple never separated again! In the restaurant, there was an adorable Uzbek girl chatting with the handsome fellow—very cute. After dinner, we saw restaurant staff and young minority performers dancing outside to entertain guests. YY eagerly joined in—dancing with real enthusiasm and style! Day?7: Ghost City (Devil's City). The heat was so intense it felt like the devil was casting a spell—everyone stayed in the vehicle. We managed to make brief stops at two viewpoints before rushing back to the visitor center. Commander Y then drove us for hours, and we finally reached Bole and checked in at our hotel that night. Day?8: In the morning, we left Bole, a surprisingly modern city. We were still dazed by the heat from the day before. S told me she visited the night market, and it was buzzing! Sayram Lake: Located in the western Tianshan range at roughly 2,000?m elevation and covering over 450?km2, it’s Xinjiang’s largest and highest alpine lake. Known as “the last drop of the Atlantic” because it’s where warm Atlantic moisture ends. On clear days, the lake sparkles blue—it’s breathtaking. The lakeside roads are full of wedding photoshoots and social media spots. Leaving Sayram Lake, we passed the Guozigou Grand Bridge—the first large-scale twin-tower cable-stayed bridge in China, about 200?m above the valley floor. It spans the gorge like a soaring dragon, serving as both a vital transport link and scenic landmark. It transforms “perilous gorges” into “smooth highways,” turning treacherous routes into majestic avenues. The Ili River Valley hosts China’s largest lavender farms. Though launched relatively recently, its scale ranks among the world’s largest. We visited the “Princess of Solace Lavender Garden” in Huocheng County near Yining—it houses cultivation, processing, and full production. In June and July, lavender is in full bloom—purple seas as far as the eye can see. Not far from the lavender fields, we were delighted to find a vast orchard of sunflowers in full bloom—so charming! Day?9: Kalajun Grassland or Kuokexu Canyon? With limited time, Commander Y let us choose. Since our next stop was the aerial meadows of Nalati, we all agreed canyon would be better. Kuokexu Grand Canyon lies within the heart of Kalajun Grassland—a dramatic gorge sculpted by geology and meltwater. “Kalajun” means “black plateau ridge.” It’s a UNESCO World Heritage grassland-steppe ecosystem of Central Asia. Kalajun Lake is actually a reservoir. A short boat ride from the entrance brings you to the canyon, where shuttle buses let you hop on and off at various scenic spots. Kuokexu Canyon combines Tianshan water erosion and alpine meadow ecosystems, boasting sweeping valley curves, deep canyon terrain, diverse vegetation, and ever-changing water hues—milky white one moment, emerald green the next. Crocodile Bay is one of the most distinctive viewpoints in the park. It’s named so because a rock formation in the gorge resembles a crocodile’s head resting at the valley bottom—nature’s sculpture.We stopped there, walked down into the canyon, and clearly saw the crocodile-shaped rock from a cliff’s edge. A Uighur staff member, having worked years in Hangzhou, cautioned us several times to stay safe. He was earnest and kind—though he’d forgotten much of his native tongue. After viewing Crocodile Bay and returning to the bus stop, a downpour began. We were told parts of the route to the next attraction, the “99 Bends,” were flooded, so shuttles wouldn’t go there anymore. Fearing delays, we waited for our ride and headed back. It was a bit disappointing—we’d seen beautiful “99 Bends” photos online. Day?10: Nalati. Today was Commander Y’s last day with us. His minibus couldn’t enter the Duku Highway, so after dropping us at the hotel, he'd have to drive two days back to Urumqi. Reluctantly, we all hoped he could join us back to Urumqi to send us off at the airport for a final goodbye. The name "Nalati" comes from Kazakh, meaning “where the sun rises.” It’s a main Kazakh settlement area. Legend says when Genghis Khan passed here during his western campaigns, he saw the sunrise and named it so. The aerial meadows of Nalati lie in the Ili River Basin on western Tianshan—one of the world’s four major alpine meadow grasslands, at over 1,800?m. Rich in flora, wildflowers, birds, and clear streams. “空中草原”綠草如茵，百花盛開 The "airborne grassland" is carpeted with lush green grass and adorned with blooming wildflowers. Cattle and sheep graze, with white yurts sprinkled throughout, surrounded by mountains and forests. Feels like a northern Xinjiang Eden. tributaries crisscross the grassland, creating lush pastures. D11:獨(dú)庫公路；安集海大峽谷 Day?11: Duku Highway and Anjihai Grand Canyon. The Duku Highway (Dushanzi–Kuqa) is a celebrated scenic road in Xinjiang—converted from a former military route. Stretching about 561?km through the Tianshan, it links Dushanzi in north Xinjiang to Kuqa in the south. Known as one of China’s most magnificent, treacherous, and legendary highways. It opens early—this year started June 1, several weeks ahead of schedule.We drove the northern stretch—from Nalati to Dushanzi—over 200?km, often called the “essence” of the Duku Highway. It combines dramatic canyons with winding mountain roads, though landslides often cause closures—apparently, one happened just yesterday due to rain. After saying goodbye to Commander Y, dispatch arranged three seven-seat SUVs for us—vehicles capable of navigating the Duku Highway. En route, we stopped at a well-equipped "Snow Mountain Service Area" with ample parking. It was crowded and finding spots tough—but our driver, Mr. Wang, was an expert and handled it smoothly. From the service area, we took time to soak in the stunning surroundings. After exiting the Duku Highway and having lunch, we soon reached our final scenic spot—Anjihai Grand Canyon. Needing to reach Urumqi that evening for rest and our early flight, we had only a brief visit there. Anjihai Grand Canyon—also known as Red Mountain Grand Canyon or “China’s Colorado Canyon”—rests on the northern slopes of the Tianshan. Famous for its dramatic landforms, colorful rock strata, and deep river valleys. On the way back to Urumqi, we passed through Shihezi. Once a farm, it’s now a modern city. In the 1960s, thousands of Shanghai’s "educated youth" were sent here, so many上海老鄉(xiāng) still feel nostalgic about it. They were derisively called “social youth,” failing middle or high school exam takers. One of our travelers recalled: as a little girl, she was warned that if she didn’t study hard, she’d be sent to Xinjiang. Terrified, she buried herself in books—she still recites those texts from primary school with no pro, even backward! ?? What a genius and so impressive! Ten days flew by in a flash. We bid reluctant farewells—this journey will be etched in our hearts. Goodbye, beautiful Northern Xinjiang, and your warm and kind people! Commander Y, farewell! 與旅友們告別 Farewell to The Group Members Author ：ChatGPT （with some modifications)Poetic lines (loosely translated):“The sky low, the prairie vast—Northwest wonder, in dreams the horses fly.Clouds twist, light mist parts the jade road—feathers swayed, golden bonds leave.Still in my cup, Northern Xinjiang wine—farewell words can’t hide in my eyes.If asked where reunion may lie—the snow peaks hold that knowledge.” 天低草遠(yuǎn)西北奇，萬馬奔騰入夢時。云卷輕煙分碧路，風(fēng)搖翠羽別金羈。杯中尚有北疆酒，眼底難藏惜別詞。若問重逢何處是，雪峰深處有君知。

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北疆遊記（English version: Northern Xinjiang Travelogue)

浩崙