<p class="ql-block">After writing the title of this travelogue, when I put the cover image, I fell into the difficulty of choosing, because there are so many beautiful photos, and none of them can represent all of Alaska ! </p> <p class="ql-block">In my imagination, Alaska is cold and snowy, and you can go anywhere with a dog cart, and in there, you must wear the thickest down jacket and pants, and snow boots. </p><p class="ql-block">Fortunately, I did my homework in advance and didn't bring a thick down jacket.</p> Because it"s warm then. Norwegian Cruise, the ship went to Alaska in Vancouver, We will board on August 19 afternoon. <p class="ql-block">So, what do we do in the morning of the 19th? my friend Jun arranged to go to the Vancouver's famous nudist beach, Wreck Beach.</p> Do not take pictures of others↓ Only to take pictures of ourselves??↓ <p class="ql-block">We had 8 days in Cruise. </p><p class="ql-block">This image is an overview of the trip.↓</p> On August 20th, we ate, drank and had fun on board. On August 21st, we landed in Ketchikan.<br><br> <p class="ql-block">We had a watching whale tour.</p> <p class="ql-block">We walk around the Ketchkan downtown. </p> <p class="ql-block">Ketchikan is the southernmost city in Alaska, from today , we will get colder deep every day, which means that the autumn colors are getting more and more beautiful!</p> <p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block"> Ketchikan is most famous for its salmon migration.</p> This river is the Ketchikan Creek, a channel where salmon migrate and spawn. Salmon swim against the current <p class="ql-block">Took photos of the sunset in the room on the ship. </p> On August 22, landed in Juneau, the capital of Alaska.<br><br> <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">The main purpose of Juneau is to see the Mendenhall Glacier and the salmon's dying of giving birth.</p> Arrive at the gate of Mendenhall Glacier，we shaw the salmon spawning and dying. <div><br></div> Every day the staff keeps notes. This picture shows how the salmon food comes from. <div>Mendenhall Glacier。</div><br> The glacier melts and flows into Mendenhall Lake.<div><br></div> <p class="ql-block">From ship, looked out at the beautiful harbor.</p> <p class="ql-block">On August 23rd, landed in Skagway.</p><p class="ql-block">we had the Best of Skagway & White Pass Railway Tour，It took 6 hours, bus first and then train.</p> Today's map. <p class="ql-block">The bus stopped at any good view.</p> Enjoy the silence. <p class="ql-block">Get off the bus and transfer to the sightseeing train, all the way to the top of the White Pass mountain, there is no chance to get off.</p> After getting off the train to a small village for lunch. Grilled salmon <br><div>On August 24th, landed in Hoonah</div> We enjoyed the ZIPLINE。 Here are 3 of us?? It's down the hill in 90 seconds, but it's really fun and exciting. A trail to Hoonah Downtown，beautiful。 City Hall. <p class="ql-block">On August 25th, without getting off the boat, the boat sailed to the Hubbard Glacier. </p><p class="ql-block">?to see the glacier from the ship. </p> It was foggy Online pictures↓ The scenic around the glacier is very beautiful <p class="ql-block">On August 26th, ended the cruise and arrive at Homer. And from that day, We began drive trip. </p> Today's map. <p class="ql-block"><br></p> fishing boy His brother just get a fish ,dolly <p class="ql-block">Meet swans</p> On August 27th, drove to Anchorage.<br> <p class="ql-block">In Anchorage downtown</p><p class="ql-block">Captain Cook</p> <p class="ql-block">Lake Hood, a place for seaplanes. In Alaska, 10% of people have an airplane license.</p> Before taking off on the water Flying That afternoon，hiking in Eklutna Lake park。 We saw the introduction of what fish eat in Alaska again. <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">I felt the light autumn that day.</p> <p class="ql-block">August 28, drove to Talkeetna </p><p class="ql-block">Take a helicopter to see the Denali. </p> Talkeetna town, very small A museum. <p class="ql-block">I saw that the Climbers from all over the world who get to the top of the Denali , they will hang a small national flag in this small museum, sign their names, and there are about nearly 100 national flags.</p> <p class="ql-block">I wanted to find a China flag. I got it. The climber is Wang Shi（王石），a famouse guy in China. He is the boss of Wanke Real Estate Company. When he got to the top of the Denali ,he was 51 years old.??????</p> boarding pass The tour included glacier landing walk.,but due to weather conditions it was canceled ice cave <p class="ql-block">on the way to the hotel. </p> The hotel is a lodge near Denali National Park, which is a loft. There is a beautiful creek next to my lodge. reception desk <p class="ql-block">August 29, Denali National Park,</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">One day I was shocked by the beautiful scenery!</p> The map of Denali National Park，the red line is our drive line, and the grey is not allowed drive，we must take the bus on the grey line.是我們今天汽車(chē)要走的線路，灰色線路不允許自駕車(chē)開(kāi)往，必須報(bào)公園的tour才能進(jìn)入，而且每年開(kāi)放的公里數(shù)也不一樣，今年公園的車(chē)最遠(yuǎn)能到達(dá)53邁處，前兩年都還能更遠(yuǎn)一些，今年不行，不知道什么原因。 That morning drove in the park, and took a trail. That trail along the river. <p class="ql-block">It's so beautiful ！</p><p class="ql-block">The nature colors means late autumn!</p> <p class="ql-block">Saw The Denali in the bus. </p> <div><br></div> <p class="ql-block">In the bus, I kept taking photos useing my cell phone in the aisle seat, and after the first stop, one guy gave me the window seat???? </p><p class="ql-block">Look at this beauty!</p> <p class="ql-block">There are many moose in park.</p> Another one <p class="ql-block">This is the scenery that I was shocked again after the Torres del Paine National Park and Antarctica! </p> <p class="ql-block">A female grouse</p> With a double rainbow ??we ended today's trip <p class="ql-block">We Stayed in a youth hostel at night in Fairbank, the owner is an old lady, my friends DJ and LF are living in a large open room, just like a dormitory, people who live here are cooking by themselves, there are many young people from different countries , chatting and cooking together, very interesting.</p> <p class="ql-block">Staying here is to see the aurora in the middle of the night, but we didn't see the aurora at that night. </p> <p class="ql-block">August 30th, Schedule: Dalton Highway, </p><p class="ql-block">Arctic Circle</p> <p class="ql-block">Actually, the car broke down??</p><p class="ql-block">There is no cellphone signal there. </p><p class="ql-block">There are very few cars on the road, finally came 2 cars, we stopped it, at the beginning they did not stop, drove more than 50 meters, that 2 cars turned around and came back, they were together 6 young people, did not stop at the beginning because the speed was too fast!</p><p class="ql-block"> They were very nice. </p><p class="ql-block">Luckily, the young people had a satellite phone, but the satellite phone could only send text messages, and they sent it to their friends, who called the car rental company and replied that the car rental company said they knew. And their friend also sent our location to the car rental company, and we had to wait for the car rental company to come to pick us up.</p> Took a photo together. <p class="ql-block">Wait, wait, wait, there is no news, there is no signal. </p><p class="ql-block">In the end, everyone decided to stop another car, in order to take two of us and go to a place with a cellphone signal.</p> We stoped another car. It's a police car。 <p class="ql-block">After explaining the situation to the police, the police said that he could take one person to a nearby road maintenance station for further contact. However, he can only take one person.</p> <p class="ql-block">My friend Jun went with him. </p> It was nearly 2 hours or so of waiting <p class="ql-block">At 17:06PM，The police car came back。</p><p class="ql-block">At the maintenance station, Jun called a towing company and also told the location, and they asked us to wait at the maintenance station.</p><p class="ql-block">結(jié)果不理想！手掌到了那個(gè)公路養(yǎng)護(hù)站，只有有線電話可以用，那里也沒(méi)有信號(hào)，打通了租車(chē)公司電話，租車(chē)公司說(shuō)不管，原因是手掌沒(méi)有在他們公司買(mǎi)保險(xiǎn)！但是承諾明天過(guò)來(lái)?yè)Q一輛車(chē)。沒(méi)辦法，又給她自己的保險(xiǎn)公司打電話，聯(lián)系非常費(fèi)勁，又慢，最后聯(lián)系了一家拖車(chē)公司，對(duì)方答應(yīng)19點(diǎn)左右到達(dá)公路養(yǎng)護(hù)站接我們并且拖車(chē)！</p><p class="ql-block">警察非常好，把手掌送回來(lái)，又開(kāi)路開(kāi)著我們和破車(chē)后一起到了公路養(yǎng)護(hù)站，破車(chē)小心翼翼的開(kāi)，因路程短，沒(méi)感覺(jué)有太大問(wèn)題。</p><p class="ql-block">到了公路養(yǎng)護(hù)站，警察離開(kāi)了，站里有一個(gè)老頭在值班，而且還快下班了。</p><p class="ql-block">沒(méi)有手機(jī)信號(hào)，沒(méi)有網(wǎng)絡(luò)，那真叫叫天天不應(yīng)，叫地地不靈??！被動(dòng)回到了沒(méi)有通訊網(wǎng)絡(luò)的時(shí)代！</p> <p class="ql-block">Before the maintenance station get off work, we used his computer with Internet access to book the hotel , otherwise we will be no place to stay at night!</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">趕緊在老頭下班前，用他有網(wǎng)的電腦把晚上返回fairbanks的酒店訂了才是最要緊的事，要不然晚上回去沒(méi)地方住了！</p><p class="ql-block">而下一站酒店還不給退錢(qián)！</p> <p class="ql-block">Wait in the station, wait, wait, wait, it's 19:30, and the trailer hasn't come yet.</p><p class="ql-block">在站里等啊，等啊，19：30了，拖車(chē)還沒(méi)來(lái)。老頭早就下班，來(lái)了新的值班人員，我和手掌又敲開(kāi)值班人員的辦公室，借用電話給拖車(chē)公司打，沒(méi)人接！心里沒(méi)底。</p><p class="ql-block">值班人員說(shuō)，下午就在路邊看到我們了??，知道我們車(chē)拋錨了，一不留神在當(dāng)?shù)爻闪嗣耍?lt;/p> <div>Wait until around 19:50PM, everyone made a decision together, use this broken car to drive back slowly!</div>我把養(yǎng)護(hù)站附近把那里都拍遍了。<div>等到19:50左右，大家共同做了個(gè)決定，要不然用這輛破車(chē)慢速往回開(kāi)？這拖車(chē)公司也不來(lái)了吧？</div> <p class="ql-block">On the way back, after 30 minutes, and on a very muddy road, we saw the towing car on the opposite side.</p><p class="ql-block">Press the car horn and shouting, it's useless, they can't hear us. so we missed it! </p><p class="ql-block">往回開(kāi)的路上，也就30分鐘左右，在一段非常泥濘的路上，非常滑，居然看到了對(duì)面來(lái)的拖車(chē)和接人的van！?。“蠢?，喊叫，都沒(méi)用，對(duì)方聽(tīng)不到，就這樣華麗麗的錯(cuò)過(guò)了！今天咋這么衰？好巧不巧，車(chē)又冒煙了！</p> <p class="ql-block">Stop on the side of the road and wait again!</p><p class="ql-block">We thought the towing car arrives and can't find us, they'll come back!</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">路邊停下來(lái)，等拖車(chē)到了找不到我們就會(huì)返回來(lái)！等著吧，</p><p class="ql-block">等啊等，等不到！LF就截了一輛車(chē)搭車(chē)養(yǎng)護(hù)站去找。剩余我們6個(gè)等啊等，又等了很久，拖車(chē)返回來(lái)了，沒(méi)看見(jiàn)LF。我們幾個(gè)跟不要命似的揮手?jǐn)r車(chē)?。?！沒(méi)一會(huì)兒，LF也回來(lái)了，終于會(huì)師了！司機(jī)下車(chē)，很不高興，說(shuō)到了養(yǎng)護(hù)站沒(méi)有我們，又去了我們開(kāi)始拋錨的地方，還是沒(méi)有，感覺(jué)被放鴿子了！</p> <p class="ql-block">Finally the towing car came</p><p class="ql-block">開(kāi)始拖車(chē)了，見(jiàn)到希望了</p> <div>So tired.</div>我們幾個(gè)坐上一輛非常破的van，累的東倒西歪。 <div>Arrived at the hotel in the middle of that night.</div>入住酒店時(shí)，半夜12點(diǎn)多了！這1天！那個(gè)不負(fù)責(zé)任的租車(chē)公司！ <p class="ql-block">On August 31st, the rental company changed car and we continued the route of yesterday's map, but it had to return to Fairbanks on the same day</p><p class="ql-block">8月31號(hào)，租車(chē)公司換車(chē)，繼續(xù)昨天的地圖線路，只是當(dāng)天必須返回Fairbanks，延續(xù)行程中的下一個(gè)酒店。</p> <p class="ql-block">The towing cost was $2,200.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">新車(chē)換回來(lái)，手掌、DJ、LF起大早換的，辛苦了！</p><p class="ql-block">發(fā)現(xiàn)，車(chē)?yán)锒嘁粋€(gè)備胎，后來(lái)才知道，去道頓公路必須2個(gè)備胎，而且別租車(chē)公司的車(chē)都不允許上那條公路，租價(jià)還高，租車(chē)公司居然沒(méi)有給我們配好備胎，這個(gè)把柄被手掌抓著，后期得以租車(chē)公司賠了我們拖車(chē)費(fèi)用2200美元。</p> 今天開(kāi)到這個(gè)地方，才是正式上了道頓公路。距離昨天拋錨的地方1邁?? <div>Our new car</div><div><br></div>新?lián)Q的車(chē)，底盤(pán)上是原車(chē)帶的備胎，后備箱又給配了一個(gè)備胎。 <div>The location where we were in trouble yesterday.</div>昨天被困在這里一整天都沒(méi)有想著在地圖上定個(gè)位留個(gè)紀(jì)念，還好今天想起來(lái)了，Livengood ！ <div>The name of the Dalton Highway is a highway named after James W. Dalton.</div><div>道頓公路的名字是用James W.Dalton名字命名的一條公路。</div><div>他1937年畢業(yè)于阿拉斯加大學(xué)礦業(yè)學(xué)院采礦工程專(zhuān)業(yè)。在阿拉斯加北部和亞北極采礦和建筑領(lǐng)域工作了六年后，于 1943 年加入美國(guó)海軍海蜂隊(duì)，尋求在北極阿拉斯加擔(dān)任巡邏預(yù)備隊(duì)的職務(wù)。1946 年，作為一名民用工程師，道頓加入了海軍的阿拉斯加石油勘探項(xiàng)目，并一直工作到項(xiàng)目完成。道頓對(duì)沒(méi)有道路的北坡、難以進(jìn)入的北冰洋、該地區(qū)的資源、艱巨的挑戰(zhàn)的了解 - 這些知識(shí)在 20 世紀(jì) 60 年代幫助阿拉斯加州官員選擇了已被證明是寶貴的石油生產(chǎn)資源的州土地。</div> 道頓公路人跡罕至，景色曠視無(wú)敵，道路維護(hù)頻率估計(jì)不高，所以這條道路阿拉斯加法律不允許很多車(chē)在上面行駛，Alaska Auto Rental公司是唯一一家有可以上道頓公路的車(chē)出租，等于他們壟斷，也就可以不負(fù)責(zé)任吧。<div>但在我看來(lái)，這條公路沒(méi)什么啊，呼倫貝爾為了深度游，公路都是這樣！</div> <div>Crude oil pipelines。</div><div>阿拉斯加除了金礦，銀塊、銅礦，還以原油管道而著名，采自北冰洋的石油，經(jīng)這條管道向往輸送。下圖中有石油管道。</div><div>阿拉斯加原油管道是世界上第一條從北極地區(qū)外輸?shù)脑凸艿?。從美?guó)阿拉斯加北坡的普魯?shù)禄魹秤蛥^(qū)起，縱貫整個(gè)阿拉斯加地區(qū)，翻過(guò)髙1463m的布魯克斯山脈，到達(dá)該區(qū)南海岸的瓦爾迪茲港。全長(zhǎng)1277km,管徑為1220mm。管道經(jīng)過(guò)地區(qū)的最低氣溫-57，經(jīng)過(guò)700km的永凍土地帶，其中680km架空敷設(shè)，用厚lOOnim的隔熱層保溫。全線共設(shè)11個(gè)中間泵站，總裝機(jī)功率近4780000kW,設(shè)計(jì)輸油能力1億米3/年。規(guī)劃設(shè)計(jì)、施工歷時(shí)9年,耗資近80億美元，1977年7月一期工程投產(chǎn)。<br></div> <p class="ql-block">There are also gold, silver, copper, and oil in Alaska, which the United States bought from Russia for only $7.2 million in 1867.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">插一段我感興趣的歷史故事：</p><p class="ql-block">又有金礦、銀礦、銅礦，還有石油的阿拉斯加，美國(guó)是如何以700萬(wàn)美元及20萬(wàn)美元手續(xù)費(fèi)從俄羅斯手里買(mǎi)走了呢？</p> <div>以下內(nèi)容是我百度來(lái)的：</div>1742年航海家維塔斯·白令隨同俄羅斯海軍在北極地區(qū)進(jìn)行了一次探險(xiǎn)，他們沿著俄羅斯西伯利亞北部海岸線一直航向到了北美洲阿拉斯加地區(qū)，并發(fā)現(xiàn)了阿拉斯加的阿留申群島、科曼多爾群島和白令島。1784年，俄羅斯人在科迪亞克島的三圣徒灣建立了他們的首個(gè)殖民地。<div>由于人煙稀少，多年來(lái)阿拉斯加沒(méi)有為俄國(guó)帶來(lái)任何貢獻(xiàn)，反倒增加駐軍經(jīng)費(fèi)。1853年到1856年，沙俄在克里米亞戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)中被英國(guó)和法國(guó)聯(lián)軍擊敗，國(guó)庫(kù)空虛；另一方面，由于英國(guó)進(jìn)一步加強(qiáng)在北美殖民地的發(fā)展，特別是在西部的英屬哥倫比亞，令俄國(guó)擔(dān)心日后最終會(huì)戰(zhàn)敗而失去這個(gè)易攻難守的阿拉斯加。俄國(guó)希望拉攏美國(guó)以牽制日漸強(qiáng)大的英國(guó)的擴(kuò)張。因此俄國(guó)于1859年首次向美國(guó)提議賣(mài)出阿拉斯加，以圖制衡英國(guó)。<br></div><div><br></div> 1859年俄國(guó)首次接觸美國(guó)希望出售阿拉斯加，由于美國(guó)正值發(fā)生南北戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)，因此計(jì)劃告吹。后來(lái)美國(guó)北方的林肯政府勝出，沙皇亞歷山大二世指示時(shí)任首相再就阿拉斯加的買(mǎi)賣(mài)和美國(guó)國(guó)務(wù)卿威廉·西華德談判。談判由1867年3月初開(kāi)始，并最終于1867年3月30日凌晨四時(shí)成交。圖中左二坐者為西華德，當(dāng)時(shí)許多美國(guó)人并不認(rèn)同這樁買(mǎi)賣(mài)，揶揄阿拉斯加為“西華德家的大冰箱”。<div><br></div> 俄美雙方最終以700萬(wàn)美元加20萬(wàn)美元手續(xù)費(fèi)成交，平均每英畝土塊僅值兩美分。而買(mǎi)賣(mài)的條約亦在1867年4月9日在美國(guó)參議院以37票支持，2票反對(duì)的情況下獲得通過(guò) 言歸正傳，繼續(xù)我們的旅程。 今天的行程中，道頓公路上只有到了這里才有加油的地方。 <p class="ql-block">由于把2天的行程壓縮到了一天，所以，道頓公路再美，我們也不被DJ允許停車(chē)拍景，必須全隊(duì)服從命令，一路向北，終于在下午15點(diǎn)多抵達(dá)北極圈！</p><p class="ql-block">繼2022年進(jìn)入南極圈后，今天，我又進(jìn)入了北極圈！</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">After entering the Antarctic Circle in 2022, today, I am in the Arctic Circle !</p> 進(jìn)入北極圈是個(gè)象征意義，非常遺憾沒(méi)有再加1天繼續(xù)北上前往deadhorse，那樣就抵達(dá)北冰洋了。 <p class="ql-block">剛到北極圈標(biāo)志，就看見(jiàn)一個(gè)導(dǎo)游帶領(lǐng)他的團(tuán)隊(duì)進(jìn)行入圈儀式，他還帶了一塊紅毯讓儀式更莊重。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">A tour guide leading his team to the circle ceremony, he also brought a red carpet to make the ceremony more solemn.</p> 受到啟發(fā)的我們也借用他的紅毯如法炮制了一下。<div><br></div><div>It's me??</div> <p class="ql-block">沒(méi)有時(shí)間停留太久，必須盡早回返。</p><p class="ql-block">無(wú)獨(dú)有偶，今天又是人品爆棚的一天，在一天的收官之際，老天又給了一道美麗的彩虹??</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">On the way back to hotel, another rainbow。</p> <div>晚上入住切納溫泉度假村Chena Hot Springs Resort，是為了泡溫泉，但是當(dāng)晚太累，根本沒(méi)有泡溫泉的欲望。結(jié)果晚上發(fā)現(xiàn)房間里沒(méi)有洗澡水，真是服了，不泡都不行！</div> <p class="ql-block">On September 1st, the end of the trip, we walked the trail near the spa hotel, walked around the city of Fairbanks, and flew back to Minneapolis in the evening.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">9月1號(hào)，旅行結(jié)束日，溫泉酒店附近走trail，F(xiàn)airbanks城市轉(zhuǎn)轉(zhuǎn)，晚上飛回明尼艾普利斯。</p> 酒店周邊風(fēng)景宜人<div><br></div><div>Around the spa hotel.</div> 走了大概近2個(gè)小時(shí)的trail，開(kāi)車(chē)前往Fairbanks Downtown。 城市不大，干凈舒服 <p class="ql-block">最后，去看了圣誕老人，據(jù)說(shuō)他出生在這里。反正在北極的地方都說(shuō)自己的家鄉(xiāng)是圣誕老人出生的地方，比如挪威。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Finally, we went to see Santa Claus, who is said born here.</p> 美國(guó)人都帶小孩子來(lái)這里購(gòu)買(mǎi)禮物。<div><br></div><div>Gift house.</div> <p class="ql-block">到此，所以旅程結(jié)束，DJ和LF去還車(chē)，返回機(jī)場(chǎng)后，我們席地而坐，打牌??直至登機(jī)。最后在明尼艾普利斯揮手告別，他們回弗吉尼亞和馬里蘭，我回羅杰斯特。</p> <p class="ql-block">番外：</p><p class="ql-block">回家后經(jīng)手掌的努力，跟租車(chē)公司發(fā)郵件據(jù)理力爭(zhēng)，租車(chē)公司將我們的拖車(chē)費(fèi)用2200美元承擔(dān)了??</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Extra:</p><p class="ql-block">After returning home, after working hard and sending an email to the car rental company, the car rental company covered the cost of our towing car 2,200 US dollars.</p>